One of the recurring questions I get from menswear beginners and even veterans is how I am able to create fits everyday on a whim without many unintentional (default/autopilot) days. It’s a good question and one that I’m surprised I haven’t written about before. A quick way to say it is that I am simply excited to get dressed, not just to wear a cool fit on my body (and be seen in it, lets not forget that) but also the creative, self-imposed challenge itself of making what I would consider to be a “good outfit.” But now that I think about it more deeply, there is a reason why I am excited. And that reason is Inspiration.
To me, Inspiration is the energy of Life, the Call from Calliope to express yourself and create. Both of these things go hand in hand. The draw to do so can be as concrete as wanting to send up something in your own way (nothing wrong with copying too) or as abstract as wanting to exude an emotion or attitude through a non-straight forward medium. Inspiration can take many forms but it is all about the energy to make something.
That “something” is art or, as Tim Carpenter put in To Photograph is to Learn How to Die, an art-object. This item full of expressive merit is where we get our passions and hobbies, allowing us to exude our essence through poetry, painting, stories, little videos, music, and yes, fashion. Inspiration does not discriminate and that’s a good thing! I believe pursuing an Expressive Life means to give yourself over to Inspiration and find out what mediums work best for you . And as I’ve dived deeper into what Inspiration means to me and figuring out what comprises it as well as what activities satiate it is what lead me to love music and yes, menswear.
I know I’ve been told that it’s absurd to make comparisons between art and menswear, but if we look at it from the realm of inspiration, I think it makes sense. An outfit is a great way for you to act on Inspiration. Music taught me that.
You see, I’ve fancied myself as a Creative, even just as a hobbyist. This has been the case ever since I was a kid. When our schedules allowed, my friends and I would make videos,often with some absurd plot that would lead us to a horribly choreographed action sequence. These videos were simply a vehicle for me to write music, though I would later move toward composing for the narratives in my head (like the Flight of the Dirigibles) or for people both fictional and real (aka my crushes— cringe!). I liked the idea that I was making something for myself that was me.
As I’ve stated before, composing music, specifically for orchestra, was the best way for me to achieve my creative endeavors. And unlike making live-action movies (even home ones) which require a team to make an idea actualized, composing can be accomplished in solitude.. I could write and “play” all the different themes and melodies on different instruments through keyboard and yo-ho-ed DAW/samples. Composing music allowed me a way for me to achieve a fully fledged concept all by myself!
And even if I was never good at it and my techniques were hardly professional, I loved the fact that I could create something. In fact, I couldn’t help myself from being inspired. Music itself was a source of inspiration, almost to the point of annoyance. I could listen to something, watch a movie, dive deep into my emotions, all of it would bring about some call to create— and usually with a melody or at least instrumentation in mind. It could be as straightforward as wanting to compose something heroic after watching Raiders of the Lost Ark or a lush love theme after watching Sabrina. Or a bit more loose, like hearing a particular instrumentation or type of song like a tango or piano solo. But I later realized that this is deeper than that.
You see, being Inspired was the call to have my music represent and reinforce my taste. My compositions aimed to show what “learned” from listening to my favorite pieces and composers, both to a listener and most importantly, to myself. This sentiment would increase exponentially as I began to further enjoy classical/concert music, where it was more “art for art’s sake”. Through my melody construction, harmonization, accompaniment, and overall orchestration, as amateur as it was, I was able to reference my favorite composers and their personal styles (their consistent techniques to expressing ideas).
That is the power of Inspiration. And it is my suggestion that dressing gets better and easier when we give ourselves over to Calliope and make an outfit whenever the feeling calls us.
This is because the Hobby of Fashion in its own way, is meant to bring together Inspiration, introspection, taste, and expression to make an “art-object” or an outfit. Figuring this out as a companion (not a replacement) to music was why I got into fashion in the first place. Menswear was simply the genre I liked most, not unlike symphonic music (in an AU, I got into jazz or even tried electronic music like Yung Chomsky!). And while getting dressed is indeed a “smaller creative pastime”, I found that it can still be bolstered in ways that were similar to music’s effect on me.
If listening to music, going to concerts, and reading about a composer’s progress can excite me to compose music, especially ones that are challenging and artful, then we should find those very things that spark inspire menswear. I know this will sound silly, but believe me when I say that anything can inspire me to make an outfit. And I’m fully conscious of when it happens, though this is mainly because I’m always around something inspiring.
Social media is certainly a boon for this. It could be a brand editorial, a street style snap from Popeye, a vintage portrait (Yusuf Karsh!), documentary photography (Ruth Orkin, Walker Evans, Gordon Parks) or even a post from a friend or mutual, many of whom have great style whether they work in the industry or not. It could even be a mood or seeing an activity: a relaxing image of slouchy proportions (classic menswear or not) or a night at a retro bar or club.
The same thing can be said about movies and TV shows! Sherlock Holmes or Gatsby could inspire something dandy. Mad Men gets me corporate and mid century. A 70s movie could get me in something sleazy or ivy. Frasier lets me love browns and minimalism as well as yuppie attire in the case of Niles. Star Wars lets me dive into my milsurp in a way that isn’t too expected. The Crown gets me to be trad and British. And of course, the occasional Golden Era picture brings out the Esquire Man. Not everything I watch is period or menswear friendly, but in most cases (especially lately) there has always been something to latch onto. Just imagine how I’ll be once I finally watch The Sopranos or make my way through the classic Hollywood repertoire.
For me, there is an intoxicating and inviting energy from these sources, teeming from some connecting or kinship I have with it; this is only exacerbated the more you develop an interest not only in fashion, but movies, art, music, and so on. This probably explains how almost anything can be inspiring. The fact that menswear, or rather fashion as a hobby, has exploded since the pandemic means that everyone is posting something that can serve as inspo, making it quite easy to have at least a little bit of direction to make an outfit. It could be as concrete as an entire fit or as abstract as a color combination. Hell, I could see someone wear an individual piece similar to something I own and that could get me to break it out of the closet and make an outfit with it.
Now that I think about it, the draw I have to these Inspirational sources usually is because I already/naturally own the very things that the sources are wearing. And if its not exact, its very close— think M-43 pants instead of OG-107s or a point collar for a true spearpoint. In other words, there is kinship of taste between me and my Inspirations; this is similar to my own musical techqniue/expression and the composers I enjoy. Whether or not this is indicative of a bubble is not the point (I know it is, shut up). The point is that when I see something inspiring, I know I can do it. This keeps me connected with my taste as well as empowers me to actually follow through instead of just keep the Inspiration in my head. Inspiration is achievable.
To be clear, it’s not that I follow people or save photos just because I can’t come up with these ideas on my own. It’s more like the opposite— I can’t help but end up a huge library of inspo because everything is just so cool! It could be the people in the industry, old photos and illustrations, or even my friends and mutuals. They all call out to me. I’d even venture to say that compiling inspo is a part of this hobby, not unlike finding albums to listen to or buying zines/prints from your favorite indie artist, especially if it calls you to make something of your own. In fact, I’d even say that sharing your inspo, especially if its niche (aka not the same photo of Paul Newman we’ve seen make the rounds), is a huge way to show participation and taste that isn’t posting outfits (perhaps to the point of overt signaling).
Now I know that this is a no brainer. People save inspo photos all the time, whether it’s physically on their phone/computer or its mentally, cataloged in a mind palace to break out the next time you have to make a fit. But this is where I want to challenge you. Why keep it locked away when you can act on it immediately?
One of the benefits of music composition was that I could act on an idea rather quickly. Back in high school and college, if I got an inkling for a composition, I would write it down in a music notation software. And once I was done with classes for the day (or if I was in an especially boring class), I would immediately get started on the composition. It’s a bit harder to do now that I am a working adult with more hobbies than just making music, but I still try to do that as a way to actualize that idea. That’s because Inspiration to me is really about two things: the Call and the Action. And the same can certainly be done with menswear.
You see, whenever I get Inspired to make an outfit, I immediately set out to put it together. This does not mean doing a mid-day costume change just because you saw a cool outfit in the street or had a color combo pop into your head. No, I simply mean that you can physically put the pertinent items together in your closet. In this way you have made the “art-object” from your Inspiration. All that remains is the time to wear it, which could be the next day or a few days from when the fit was put together.
This isn’t about planning outfits but rather to be able to execute on the spontaneous nature of Inspiration. I know it sounds silly to make an outfit without a “reason”, but that’s one of the main reasons why I consider an outfit as an art-object. In that way, Outfits are like my compositions or even my photographs, where they are a culmination of whatever influences and emotions I had when I got Inspired.
In that way, Inspiration then becomes the metric for what my efforts are judged against. Do I look the way I want? Have I achieved the right vibe? Why or why not? It seems silly, but this is important for the sake of developing our taste and technique. Without Inspiration, we are left to dress for dress codes or decorum which is vague at best or straight up unavailable. Current life has no direction , which means that fit creation can end up being creatively sparse and makes us simply “go through the motions”. But this doesn’t have to be the case, if we let ourselves act on Inspiration when it comes.
An outfit made from Inspiration or at least in close proximity to it, never ends up being half-assed or just thrown together. Even if the outfit is simple, it is still an intentional exercise of expressing whatever POV came about from the Inspiration. And in my case, because everything excites me and I make sure to act on it when it happens, I always have an outfit that is personal and attached to my life in some way, all assembled and ready to be worn.
Of course, this constant stream of excitement inevitably leads into a backlog of outfits, which I know some of you have heard of. I’m not the type of person to have a mid day change and wear multiple outfits a day, which is why it can take me up to a week to finally get to an outfit that I’ve made. (I find the idea of one outfit a day a bit romantic). But because my life seldom has Occasions with a dress code and the fact that I always have the gumption to go to Trivia in a suit or wear a fedora to the coffee shop, my outfits always make sense for whatever I happen to be doing. After all, my clothes are a reflection of my mood and interests, so they always reflect “me”!
In a sense, this teaches me commitment as I often wear the outfits as put together; it’s very rare that changes are made, especially after I’ve put it on my body. If something does come up, like cheap tickets to the symphony or a random cocktail night that requires a different outfit or POV, I am also more than fine to simply move a fit back into the backlog and wear something that makes more sense for that Occasion. But that’s quite rare, as I tend to know what events are happening ahead of time.
And to be clear, some outfits are indeed inspired by actual events that come up. Granted, most of it is done because I make them happen: I often suggest activities to do, whether it’s weekly trivia, a visit to a local museum to see what’s new, or a spontaneous cocktail, coffee, or karaoke session. Each of these things can Inspire a look that takes into account what I like, what I’m feeling, as well as what I want to look like (a POV if you will). In the end, because we’re all working adults in our late 20s and early 30s, these end up being more “in advance” than spontaneous, but it still results in me making some sort of outfit in the moment the plans solidify. I’m not sure what ultimately excites me more: the Occasion or the outfit I’m going to wear!
All of this is meant to make us enjoy getting dressed and nothing brings that out more than achieving an idea we’re excited about. But this approach is not without its dark side, at least for me.
When I’ve discussed this approach to getting dressed to friends and mutuals, they sometimes bring up overstimulation and obsessive-compulsive tendencies. And you’re not wrong. I’ve definitely noticed that whenever I get “Inspired”, I get the need to act on it, to make something. I must self-actualize on that idea.
In high school and college, I would spend every free moment turning the music in my head into something in the real world. On the outside, this was fine; I had a hobby to keep me busy as I obviously wasn’t hanging out with my friends at all times (shout out to friends who have boundaries with their social batteries). But this was no pastime, this was a task to do: one that satisfied my creative hunger but took a lot of energy out of me nonetheless. The fact that composing was solitary and achievable all by myself became a problem— I knew my only limit was my bandwidth, which I could stretch as needed. And while finishing a composition, big or small, quelled Inspiration, the reality was that there was still a backlog of ideas that needed actualization.
The blessing that Inspiration can manifest itself from anywhere became a curse. The muse is now a ghostly siren, doomed to haunt me until I create the vision that burrowed itself in my head like an earwig. And if I’m being completely honest, this anxiety manifests itself across almost every activity I do.
I love taking photos at events, not in pursuit of the Perfect Picture, but because I like the idea of turning a moment into a Photograph in general. The action is quick enough for me not to be detached from the moment, but I can still recognize the compulsion to take a photo and believe me, it happens a lot (which is why if you are close enough to have access to my Flickr, you know I take a lot of photos and not just of myself). My friends just look so cool, just standing there doing their thing, that I can’t help but take a photo. I’m just glad that they enjoy my output; it would be a different story if they thought my work was bad (lol).
All of my friends are a muse, simply being compelling in how they exist and live life. I try to keep them as candid or silly avoiding overt posing or retakes in order to keep them in the moment (unless its a fit pic). Overall, I’m there to capture and share their essence with my photography, similar to how an outfit is a composite of whatever interests and feelings (for anything Inspiring) that I had when I created the outfit. But as positive as this sounds, it again leads to me taking a lot of photos…as well as my compulsion to edit them the same day that they are taken in order to “complete” the act of taking a photo. In other words, I need the export!
I’d say that blog also counts, not technically as a “creative endeavor” but simply a way to get my thoughts out there in a more concrete and explicit way (compared to other art forms). However like menswear and music, the words I write are indicative of my philosophy and taste, which in turn is me self-actualizing on what I read as well as what I discuss with my peers. And you guessed it, so much of what I do inspires blog posts, whether it’s as serious as defining what Personal Style means to me or even as absurd as delving into how people perceive formality. This sounds fun, but it can end up being a scarily positive feedback loop that can go until infinity.
I am glad that the blog exists as a catalog of my thoughts (and I’d rather write than have nothing at all), but believe me when I say that there is always a big backlog of topics to cover. Many blog posts are indeed written in advance, with many waiting their turn to be made public. And while things are calming down, which is why I always reference the End of the Blog, there is still a bit more coming, both in terms of what is written and what will be written.
I get so many ideas for blog posts that I need to write down in order to reference or inform future blog posts. And writing these long pieces takes up a lot of bandwidth, physically and mentally, but I do it because I know I have to in order to keep moving forward. And again, since I’m free and by myself a lot, I know I can spend time doing this stuff. What else is there to do? [Don’t say go harder at the gym (as I already do a few times a week), I will cry]. This is often why I enjoy going out and hanging with friends; the physical separation (distraction?) from my “work” helps prevent me from endlessly writing (or composing).
I am seldom idle. Most of my time is spent doing all of these things, these Passions (I say this with a bittersweet inflection). And in a similar way, menswear (or the act of making outfits) tends to also fall into this compulsion.
One of the best things about fashion is how much simpler (and ultimately quicker) it is to execute on Inspiration, to make something in a process that really just needs me. But my obsession to satiate Inspiration can still rear its ugly head. I could be sitting in my room watching a movie or scrolling through Instagram when I see a cool outfit, which then makes me get up, go to the closet, and put those pertinent items together. But here’s the kicker, it often doesn’t stop there because making that outfit brings about Inspiration as well.
You see, even looking into my closet gets me excited. So as I put items together, I start to see other items in my closet that then Inspire me to make another outfit. Of course none of these outfits are guaranteed to be the exact same thing as what my mind thought up: there might be some subtle changes or shifts that occur as I bring things out of my closet and before the fit is completed and set aside. Some things are rejected in favor of others, based on how my POV and mood are. But those rejected items aren’t cast aside; I gravitated to them for a reason. In other words, those items end up being incorporated into other outfits, ones that I didn’t think of making at the beginning.
This is not decision fatigue but decision stimulation, essentially functioning as a “positive feedback loop:, where there is a potential to get stuck making outfits ad infinitum. While this may sound good to people who struggle with coming up with outfit inspo, in actuality, it can feel more like the climax of Inside Out 2 where Anxiety gets stuck in their process and must be snapped back to reality. I often have to tell myself to stop and let the backlog sit for a while instead of adding to it continuously.
Because if I really enjoyed Inspiration, I should give it a moment to breathe and come up with new ideas, stemming from new moments and experiences that haven’t happened yet. While writing music and doing long blog posts has a higher propensity to burn me out, thankfully outfits still give me joy to create. And unlike writing/composing, which often requires alone time either at home or at a cafe, my outfit can be with me no matter what I’m doing. Because at the end of the day, fashion is about wearing the outfit as much as it is putting it together.
I do not mean this tale to come across as cautionary. There is a high chance that you all have a healthier relationship to Creating. After all, most people need a push to make something, whether it’s starting a blog, writing some music, or even making an outfit. That’s why I hope that all of this is a positive instigator! I definitely recommend acting on Inspiration. The importance of this discipline is to encourage you to turn ideas in your head into something concrete—and see just how easy it can be!
I know that all of this stems from how I don’t like things remaining in the aether; whether this is infantile object impermanence or simply a fear of forgetting, is up to you. I simply find joy in acting on my Inspiration and making something of it, a record of my interests and feelings. Doing this on a regular basis (I can’t imagine not making outfits this way) has shown me a lot in how my mind works, what I enjoy (as not every piece of media actually inspires an outfit), and how I put things together. It ultimately reveals my relationship to Inspiration, which is the source of all things Creative.
My compositions, as rare as they are now (sob), function the same way. Turning a two bar melody into a fully orchestrated concert presentation is an evaluation of my creative process, let alone how I accomplish Thematic Development. I want to be able to learn and hone my ideas which is something that can only be achieved by actually making something concrete. In that way, this exercise becomes affirming and satisfying! It’s self-actualization at play.
Again, it’s different from making music or other forms of higher art. To be clear, I have always been at least a little self-conscious in how often I relate art and wearing clothes. I will always feel like I need to make it deeper or more complicated/involved in my pursuit of actualizing Inspiration. I know that menswear is only a half-measure (or even less) for that goal; indeed clothes are just one avenue for creative expression. I think that my reflection on composing the Inspiration Fantastique is proof that not only do I need to put in an effort for a true artistic outlet but that I can still do it. This was never about menswear as a replacement for music, but a supplement.
That’s why when it comes to acting on Inspiration, especially in small ways, menswear is a fantastic medium in its own right. I like the idea that I can make a vibe all by myself, that I can play up different aspects of my interests or attitudes all by how I put my clothes together. I don’t want to wait for an External Occasion in order to have direction for my outfits. I can provide that. Or rather Calliope will, as her Call can be found in everything, from social media, movies, hanging out with friends, or even my own emotions and attitude of the day.
As I said before, compelled to act on Inspiration is because I know I can do it. Yes, some of this is because I already have similar taste and expressiveness to my Inspirations, adding to the kinship instead of it feeling “out of reach”. Despite being Asian American in a non-menswear place, my [male?] arrogance always made me think that I can do it. There’s also the fact that I already have a large wardrobe, meaning that I naturally already own items that are very close to what I see.
All this to say that acting on Inspiration is empowering. It gets you more connected with your expressive techniques and lets you know what drives your POV. That’s why I encourage you, dear reader, to give yourself over to Inspiration and challenging yourself to make a fit as soon as it comes in. will not only result in a more intentional outfit, but will ultimately reveal something personal about yourself that will inform future outfits and Inspiration. At the very least, having Inspiration will provide Direction (heheh) that makes the act of outfit creation much easier.
I honestly can’t remember the last time I truly didn’t know what to wear. Almost every day, an outfit sits in my closet, ready to go as it was composed by Inspiration herself, divining my hands as I put a shirt and tie together.
Why not let Her help you too?
(I promise I’m not starting a cult)
-end of blog post-
I also talked to Spencer and MJ about Acting on Inspiration on the Style & Direction podcast! You can listen to the full episode above or on any podcasting platform.
Their perspective mainly lies on the abstract and coincidental nature of it all. By this I mean that an inspo pic doesn’t immediately spur them to wear or put together a particular outfit. Instead, they archive in their head (and phone) and return to it when a situation calls for it. In that way, it is mainly exceptional outfits are considered “Inspirational” rather than simply serving as a prompt. For them, Direct Inspiration usually leans on novelty or features an interesting idea that they haven’t done yet or don’t do regularly. That being said, there are some inspo pics that do get them to “immediately” dress in vein of the source— its usually do to a movie or TV show. After all, I did dress like Johnny from The Bikeriders right after I watched the film!
My favorite part of the pod is how Inspiration seldom leads us to buying new things. We either already own the items in the photo or we have some approximation of it. Granted, this is also because we’ve amassed so many clothes over the course of our Menswear Hobby. That being said, its still a good challenge to not simply buy everything you see. It’s good to try and do the look with what you have. You may find that what you own is already a great way to Act on Inspiration…until you find that you absolutely must have that garment.
I think it was a great episode that, like all the others before it, really aims to demystify the “How” and “Why” behind getting dressed, particularly in how outfits are composed. Yes, POV is important, but what drives us to pic that particular POV that day? The answer is Inspiration.
Podcast Outline
- 26:37 – Saving Inspiration
- 42:09 – What Jumps Out at You
- 53:31 – Spontaneous vs Backlog Inspiration
- 1:09:21 – Does Inspiration Ever Feel Inaccessible?
- 1:12:53 – Inspiration to Buying the Garment
- 1:17:46 – Favorite Sources for Inspiration
- 1:22:07 – Wrap-up
Now enjoy some general inspo images. It’s a mix of what’s currently on my mind and the stuff I consider to be all time faves, though obviously its not everything. That list would be endless.
A few of them are what I’d consider to be “iconic” and have made the rounds in the menswear world. But they, that just means they’re good, right? [I’m just basic at the end of the day]. If you’re a regular reader of the blog, then you’ve already seen most of these, as each of my blog posts are essentially individualized inspo albums centered around a topic. Oh well!
Like I said in the main body of the blog post, these photos are Inspirational to me because I already own most of these pieces already. Some are for future purchases (though I’ve really slowed down on that front). In any case, most of them are just cool with a certain vibe that makes me want to send end them up in my own way. It’s all about kinship. And since this is my inspo, these pics are mainly from the Golden Era (both photos and illustrations) and from contemporary menswear personalities that I enjoy. Unlike Spencer, I don’t save a lot of movie photos or celebs from the 70s (but I’m trying to be better).
It should also be reiterated that every outfit I wear doesn’t necessarily have a distinct inspo source. It may be hard to believe but I don’t save everything….but I do save a lot. If I happen to remember outfits that I made in service of the Inspiration, I’ll try to include them where I can!
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Buh-bye!
Ethan M. Wong (follow me on IG)| StyleandDirection
The Podcast is produced by MJ.