I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: going Full Send is the best way to get dressed.
This approach brings together two major tenets of my clothing philosophy: we should use the coded themes found in clothing to our advantage and to always dress with an intentional POV or character in mind. This is incredibly easy to do with elements of classic and vintage menswear. White and brown suits often feel “old school” but also express different things (vacation/summer and country/rugged respectively). OCBDs are ivy while spearpoints are 1930s-1940s. Full Sending simply means to fully invoke the themes (or semiotics, if you’re feeling pretentious) in our outfits.
For me, going Full Send has typically meant to dress in a way that feels creative. I do not mean in terms of breaking boundaries but in terms of showing off a creative spirit. Typically this does invoke ivy or trad in some sense in a subversive yet slouchy way. But as I look back at my menswear tenure, it’s also clear that I’ve had the hankering to be more than that. Going Full Send here means to put slouch aside and instead, posture a bit more severity and power.
I’m talking of course about the Chalkstripe & Pinstripe suit, a garment that imbues power within its stripes. It represents the epitome of going Full Send in menswear, being the definition of corporate attire. Leaning into it is all a part of the fun. And as odd as it may seem, it also somehow connects me with what it means to wear menswear, giving it a special place in my heart.
In that way, it also coincides with the other themes that have characterized the recent output of the blog: nostalgia and coming full circle.
It’s hard not to deny the appeal of Chalkstripe and Pinstripe suits.
First off, the stripes themselves are just inherently cool, their off-white or cream lines adding visual vertical interest to an otherwise “basic” suit color (brown, grey, or navy). They state the wearer’s presence with authority, the volume of which depends on the taste of the wearer. Pinstripes are quite striking but typically have a thinner line. Chalkstripes have a softer appearance but have a subtly bigger width. We also can’t forget that the spacing between the lines themselves also plays into the “voice” of these hallowed suits. In fact, this power ultimately makes them easy to wear.
Like a checked jacket. The inherent visual interest of Pin/Chalk-stripe contrasts smartly with other patterns, making it go with any type of tie; a quick look at vintage photographs and illustrations proves the “theory” behind matching. Scaling tends to be key here but most ties and shirts employ different widths, which makes triple stripes an effortless combination if you don’t mind the visual “complexity”. Even bowties (keep em patterned btw) feel natural to wear with one of these garments. Of course, solid accouterments are the ultimate no-brainer since plain ties/shirts/knits are enveloped completely by the Pin/Chalk-stripes.
The vibe is up to the wearer and their choice of base. SB notch is normal and trad. DB or SB with peaks certainly up the ante, rewarding your gumption for elegance as you lean into what the Stripes are all about. There’s also the color of the base itself. Stripes on navy and grey feel formal or corporate while using brown makes for a fun vibe on something seen as more “casual” (relatively speaking). These basic menswear semiotics provide prompts for subversion of leaning into. But as was the case with white suits and bucks, suits are more than just color and pattern. They have meaning!
Pinstripe & Chalkstripe suits are often seen as formal. After all, they were described as Town appropriate and were commonly styled conservatively.
There was even variation in how it was done, as this wide spaced chalkstripe shows.
However, they were often seen next to any other suit!
They were “special” but anyone could wear them.
Some even did it extremely casually (by historical standards).
Eventually they became a symbol of corporate America.
As well as for Titans of Industry in general.
Naturally it made sense to be the “business look”. (Great piece find by 80s GQ)
So much so that the suit is leveraged in fiction to display wealth…
…as well as an old school, gentlemanly attitude.
It is obvious that Pin/Chalk-stripe suits are inherently coded thanks to their cultural history over the past hundred years.
Menswear media always shares that they are the de facto look for everything business, finance, and law, no doubt due to the power found within their pattern. We apparently have English bankers to thank for that, as it has been said that it literally was their uniform in the 19th century. It’s almost as if wearing the garment would give you that gravitas. This was adopted by gangsters in the 1920s-1940s as a show of legitimacy that ultimately “backfired” into becoming the classic look for such criminals, both in fiction and real life.
What’s interesting is that when we look at Apparel Arts and Esquire’s Encyclopedia of Menswear, striped suits were simply suits that were striped, picked simply due to their color coordination properties and visually slimming nature. It is true that they were seen as garments suited for the City rather than the Country (mainly navy and grey), but overall, Pin/Chalkstripe suits could be found advertised (and worn) next to plain suits and checked ones with pattern being their only difference.
Yes, you could see pinstripe suits styled conservatively with plain or silver ties (or the trad way with regimental stripes), but you could also see them worn slouchily (AA would call it “semi-sports” with boater hats and abstract ties. Hell, you could even see them worn as jacket or trouser separates with ease! They were indeed just another type of suit to be worn, proven with plenty of photos of movie stars and regular people alike.
To my eyes, it was the 80s and 90s that cemented the thematic identity of the Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit, particularly the ones with a grey and navy base (business colors obv). With the rise of corporate america and the casualization of mens dress, striped suits doubled down on being firmly for business, almost to the point of hilarity. In other words, suits in general were no longer an obligation but certain mfers (Wall Street?) leaned into the Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit. With the glory days of business attire far behind us, it makes sense for a Menswear Guy to want to send it up and relive it through wearing such a suit, whether or not they actually lived through that era. After all, the Stripes stretch toward the heavens, almost helping you reach the aspirational corner office on the 50th floor.
Even if we try to remove the corporate connotations of the Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit, it is apparent that the garment feels inherently “old school” or “vintage”. A Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit invokes feelings Nostalgia, business or not. Gravitas brings about agedness, which is exacerbated by rarity, as most guys tend to not wear them unless they want to. Seeing such a suit reminds one of old movie stars and illustrations where they were able to wear character exuding garments with ease because it was “just another suit”. In other words, wearing a Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit has the ability to send up the Golden Era even if you aren’t wearing a fedora or a pinned collar. This is especially true of a brown base variation (as it’s the most uncommon) but it honestly applies to all of them.
Brands today leverage the power of the Pin/Chalk-stripe suit. Ralph Lauren plays into old school, luxury charm with an abstract tie, gloves, and a houndstooth coat. Maximalism at its finest.
It’s really cool to see the different takes they have on a classic garment. Husband’s does it exceptionally well with their 70’s silhouette and minimal styling.
This old Articles of Style shoot makes Chalkstripe out to be a bold garment.
HVRMINN made it into a fashion garment by making a Four Piece Suit (the photo above is just missing the sportcoat).
And then of course Kenji of Bryceland’s brings it back to traditional styling, playing up the formality with a 3PC as well as a club collar and silk tie.
With its past and present, the Pinstripe and Chalkstripe suit are ripe to be donned in whatever way the wearer sees fit! You can play it straight with an abstract tie and black tassels just like Nick.
Or you can subvert it with a denim shirt, as Matt Woodruff of J. Mueser shows us.
Despite its roots being a “normal” suit, it’s clear that today it is more than that. It is something to lean into and embrace, not unlike white bucks or a white suit. The best dressers (in my opinion) have always been the ones who send it up.
Ralph Lauren is a great example of that. You might even say that RL has made this garment a part of their signature look. RL has made the striped suit one of their iconic things, connecting the corporate themes with an aspirational and luxurious lifestyle. Old photos feature striped suits with polo coats and cream ties, providing slouchy drama and gravitas. However, pinstripe suits were also worn in a pseudo-English way, with contrast collars and club/motif ties. RL is also known for wearing striped jackets with white pants, which are also luxury-leisure coded, making Pin/Chalk-stripes look elegant and easy to wear at the same time. In the current world, it’s hard not to think of Ralph when a Menswear Guy wears a striped suit.
Of course RL isn’t the only one. Lots of menswear guys today invoke the power of the Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit. Arnold Wong inherently has a Golden Era charm with his bespoke DBs, seeing as they pair them with fedoras and geometric ties. Chad Park and Ethan Newton have done similar things with their attire, going between corporate and vintage looks based on how he styles them. Like I keep saying, striped shirts (as well as blue/white solids) and a patterned tie is simply the way to go with a pinstripe suit. It allows you to lean into it, making it quite easy to wear. However subversion is also recommended and serves as a great way to get the most out of such a bold garment.
Ethan Newton and his compatriots at Bryceland’s get interesting with their Striped Suits as they frequently pair them with western shirts. Quite a few NYC guys lean into the sleazy attitude the suit affords, wearing their Pin/Chalk-stripe Suits with vintage abstract ties (corporate 80s) or going casual with black button ups or white tees (a bit 80s/90s gangster). On a more subtle note, Jake Grantham utilizes stripes to evoke classic English attire but with his signature ease, combining the power of the Stripes with slouchy construction. To me, this balances severity with nonchalance. I especially enjoy the juxtaposition when he puts a rugged Barbour over his striped suits (instead of a dressier coat). All of these guys add expressive possibilities to the Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit while remaining in awe of its inherent gravitas.
In every case, it is about Full Sending the attitude of a Pinstripe or Chalkstripe suit. I understand that this can be intimidating and can scare off “newbies” who want to dress to simply look “nice” (which a blue or grey suit can certainly assist in). But once you’re passed that idea and you want to exude some power (even if its tongue-in-cheek), the Pin/Chalk-stripe Suit is alluring and easy to wear. It is for the day you want to be serious and edgy rather than slouchy.
And that’s what got me.
I’ve loved pinstripe and chalkstripe ever since I first got into menswear. My first custom suit was a linen pinstripe.
I leaned into the vibes every time I wore it.
I even had a few true vintage ones!
Some were lucky thrifts!
It didn’t matter that I had no corporate experience. This is cosplay after all!
Its safe to say that striped suits are a part of the Ethan Canon.
If you’ve kept a close watch on my menswear tenure, you already know that I’ve been in love with Pin/Chalk-stripe Suits ever since I started. How could I not! As you can tell, there’s just so much media, both vintage and contemporary, that provided ample Inspiration and stimulation for my outfits. It was only natural that I made sure to acquire it (and its vibes) to what I consider to be “Ethan Style”.
Some of my first vintage purchases were Pinstripe and Chalkstripe, though they were odd jackets (so they were cheap for my teenager budget). I had a matching jacket and vest in a navy chalk stripe as well as a navy DB odd jacket, both of which I would wear with grey and cream odd trousers in order to get my money’s worth. And you know what? I think these looks were pretty good, retroactively working as a “spin” on Morning Dress (a stretch but thats okay). I was hooked!
In fact, my first ever custom suit was a navy pinstripe DB, made by Indochino from linen because that particular cloth was on sale. Even though it seems like a typical dandy mistake that most menswear beginners regret, I actually wore mine a lot. Early on, I didn’t treat it like a summer suit but simply a pinstripe suit, which means I wore it with not just ties and polo shirts but rollnecks as well (lol). This shows a lot of the #menswear influence of which I was certainly not immune.
I soon locked into my POV and most of my outfits moving forward were done in service of the Golden Era or 80s Yuppie, as I wore it quite frequently with striped shirts and foulard ties; the type of tie was what differentiated the two. I even liked invoking true Golden Era style by wearing the suit with a dark shirt and light tie, though I was very aware that I looked like I was in Guys & Dolls or the Party City Gangster. I kept that thing from 2015 all the way into when I had my stint at Ascot Chang.
As time went on, I also ended up getting a few true vintage ones in brown, grey, and navy. The latter in particular was the most interesting as it not only was made of a heavy flannel (which means I didn’t wear it much) but was a mid 30s European model as it had an interesting shape, 4×2 closure, and a mix of belt loops, fishtail back, and side adjusters. As I got more comfortable with my style, I wore them not only to vintage events but to work as well!
I even got a chalkstripe sack suit on eBay, which only furthered how important the Pin/Chalk-Stripe suit was for my style. This was the one that let me lean more into ivy and contemporary menswear with my club and regimental ties allowing me to send up Jake Grantham with ease. Unfortunately, I later found the legs too tapered for my taste (I actually got them tapered when I got them, shame on me) and ultimately sold them to a friend. On a related note, I also passed on my 40s DBs as I wanted something less structured and with a higher buttoning point.
This resulted in a Pin/Chalk-Stripe suit sabbatical. It wasn’t that I no longer liked them but that other things took precedence, such as building up the other things that were iconic parts of my wardrobe: solid DBs, cotton suits, checked jackets, Alden loafers, and big pants. But as you know, this upgrading era eventually slowed. And when the opportunity came to buy new things, it ended up being less about experimenting and instead was more about buying what I’ve always enjoyed. And so came my Atelier Fugue navy chalkstripe DB.
It was only natural that I made a return to Stripes with Atelier Fugue.
It’s a true Full Circle Moment!
Pinstripes and Chalkstripes will always be special to me.
It’s only been a few months since I received my chalkstripe DB (it came in February) but as some of you have seen, I’ve been wearing it quite often. That’s not to say that I was without apprehension. I wasn’t sure that such a “bold” suit fit what I was doing or that my money would have been better spent elsewhere. But I was wrong. This was the right move! It’s like I’ve reconnected with a childhood friend, where hanging out is just as natural as it was when we were kids. It’s all the same things: chambray/denim shirts, knit wear, and a healthy swath of striped shirts and geometric ties. Of course, friendships also develop, and so has my use of the Striped Suit. The garment is ripe for playing, whether its by leaning into the sexiness with an open shirt or adding in casual elements like denim shirt or an aloha. Whatever the case, styling it is just so easy and makes sense for my life!
It certainly feels like a full circle moment where I’m really just doubling down on who I was when I was 18. The outfits with the suit that I’ve worn today are largely similar to what I’ve worn before, with a few being nearly-verbatim send ups of old outfits. I can cosplay as myself as well as make a return to doing all the Apparel Arts and 80s yuppie outfits I’ve always enjoyed. It’s proof that taste has always been there, just with a few executional tweaks. Wearing the Chalkstripe Suit is a way to honor the Ethan that came before. But it also seems to look to the future as well.
In my post about the grey suit, I shared how as I got older, I started to appreciate not just sobriety (in terms of styling) but dressing for the professional I was. After all, it’s easy to see grey as corporate, especially compared to brown (casual) and navy (versatile/agnostic). I’m getting right up against 30. This is my second job as an Account Manager, which plants me firmly in my career. A grey suit fits that “guy”, but a Pin/Chalk-stripe suit doubles down on this stage of life. Instead of it being a fun cosplay (nothing wrong with that), it simply makes sense for who I am and who I’m becoming. (Though I’m sure conservative dressers will still say that I haven’t earned my stripes yet).
Its been my go-to for any special occasion.
In fact, just wearing it to whatever you’re doing makes that activity an Occasion!
And it doesn’t even have to be done formally!
The formal aspect lends the Striped Suit for being my natural go-to for Occasions, though like I’ve said before, I don’t often have anything truly special that requires a specific look. It’s always up to me to determine the formality…at least for myself! It’s not that any of my other suit and tie looks wouldn’t work for a work dinner or evening cocktails, but that the Striped Suit simply makes it more special simply due to its inherent vibes.
After all, the appeal of the Stripe Suit is indeed about wanting the power it has, whether you’re ready for it or not. It’s a challenge to be clear, but a fun one that I find quite rewarding both in my expressive activities and my own confidence.
The Pinstripe and Chalk Stripe suit simply exudes gravitas, balancing bold appearance with a sobering attitude, making it stand tall against its solid and checked cousins. It’s not a menswear requirement by any means, but if you feel the allure of the lines, you should definitely embrace it, full force. Its grandeur lies in the fact that it is always saying something thanks to the vertical lines that are ever present on the garment.
For me, the stripes call to mind the pages of a diary, serving as an invitation for me to document our histories and dreams in cloth as we wear them. The lines then become strings, tying me to who we were, who we are, and who we will be.
-End of blog post-
The Pinstripe & Chalkstripe suit is also the subject of the latest episode of Style & Direction! While we do get into the weeds on what exactly counts as Pin vs. Chalk (we should have figured that out earlier), the main focus is about our love affair with this iconic pattern and how we like to leverage it in our style. Unlike me, Spencer has only owned one Striped Suit and he unfortunately passed it on a few years ago; he’s definitely in the market for one if the price and fit align. MJ on the other hand has never owned a Striped Suit but he’s obviously sold on the idea.
It’s been a while since we’ve discussed a specific garment or clothing itself in general, as most of the recent pods have been about philosophy and the approach to dressing. This one is a good return to form and makes for a fun episode!
Podcast Outline
1:25 – Topic Intro/What is Pinstripe?
13:00 – It has Meaning
27:36 – Fabric Types
36:22 – More Connotations and Styling
54:05 – Ethan and Spencer’s Pinstripe Suits
1:13:18 – Wrap-up
Despite everyone thinking the Pinstripe and Chalkstripe suit is something special, it actually used to just be considered just another City Suit, at least according to advertisements.
I guess here is is shown with a formal suit (3PC, Peak lapel, contrast collar).
I do just love all the illustrations of people living life in their striped suits.
They used to be so common! You can choose between a 3 button peak or notch.
There was even light ones!
Note the formal accoutrements like the club collar and homburg (but the weird addition of cap toe derbies).
But I maintain that everyone can wear them!
We can’t deny the smart power of the Striped Suit.
It does lend itself to be worn quite formally. I like the RL take here that evokes morning dress.
Armani’s also done a few takes on making it feel slouchy, though most of his stuff leans on solids.
You can also go corporate!
The precedent is certainl there.
What matters is that you have fun with it. Play into the vibes or subvert it!
It’s really all about the syling. I love that in the Philadelphia Story, Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart express different characters despite wearing similar suits. Grant is another socialite, shown in his conservative styling. Stewart is a reporter and is of a “lower class”, hence his casual vibe through pattern mixing and use of a woolen tie.
The easiest way to do a Pinstripe or Chalkstripe suit is to go fully corporate, pairing it with a geometric tie (like a medallion print).
Whether its a DB or SB, this is the most straight forward way to do it. Its a definitely a send up to 80s power dressing, but that’s entirely the point!
A sharp silhouette is a good way to lean into the power.
A red dotted tie also feels very yuppie/corporate.
Dotted ties, a white pocket square, and black shoes.
Wear it to the pool hall!
Oversized paisleys also do the trick, though this is pretty 80s/90s. I’d do it though.
I do love it when worn with a yellow, cream, or champagne tie, especially when there’s a pattern! Stripes means you are after that coin.
Its also a classic yuppie look that isn’t as on the nose as a paisley.
You get some pop when its done against a blue shirt. Very business-wear.
Love this floral tie paired with a 3PC pinstripe from B&Tailor.
Chad seems to invoke this a lot in his personal style! The diagonal check is a great take on this.
I’ve done it too, but I made it lean preppy with the use of white bucks. Shoes play a big roll in the outfit!
Structured micro-geometrics are great too, if you’re feeling conservative and “classic”. The light blue tie does feel a bit aughts, but its nice when worn with a mid grey chalkstripe!
Blue on blue is work safe.
Gotta love the contrast collar shirt. Feels so formal and yet so right for a striped suit.
Apparel Arts loved doing this combo. Quite dandy with the blue polka dots, black homburg, and cream gloves.
It’s certainly a look. Note the use of a the brown shoes with a black hat!
One of my old favorite looks, which dresses up a wool, fringe-end tie.
Spencer doing it with an epic 30s brocade tie.
Fun use of a yellow contrast collar shirt.
Apparel Arts liked this a lot!
A repp striped tie is another great option. Makes it feel a bit more trad, a bit more English. Ivan may dress a bit more Husband’s now, but I’ve always enjoyed the fit he wore when we met in person for the first time.
I love going for stripes on stripes.
It was such an easy go-to whenever I wore my Striped Suits. It made it feel a bit more “intellectual” rather than corporate. Repps are ivy-trad after all!
Works with brown too! Makes a “casual” striped suit feel a bit more dressy.
Triple stripes!
A striped tie with a striped suit make it “softer” in my eyes. Done well by Ethan Newton.
Drake’s took it to the next level by adding in suede chukkas, a very casual shoe.
However blue stripes (with blue accoutrements) does make it feel dressier. I’m sure there’s an AA or RL connotation!
It doesn’t even have to be ivy-trad stripes. Big blocks or deco stripes work well too! It brings back the fun by way of a retro charm.
An elegant take by B&Tailor again.
A black (or dark navy) chalkstripe DB is quite a severe look but I like that Mark Cho “softens” it with an OCBD and a woolen block stripe tie.
Dali!
An elegant take by Arnold Wong featuring a rather rakish pinstripe suit with a strong Roman shoulder.
A similar look here. Interesting to note the use of casual elements like a brown hat and brown derbies!
Jake Grantham is the king of wearing striped ties with striped suits. Its an inherent part of his style.
Its very English, though his slouchy silhouette and posture help keep things easy.
Motif ties are also a great way to keep things trad. On Jake, it again makes it feel quite English.
Drake’s doing a take here with more casual elements like suede moc boots and a sweater vest.
I absolutely adore bowties with a striped suit. It’s preppy and fun, taking a bit of the piss out of the pinstripe suit. I snapped Eric wearing his take a few years ago when I visited NYC.
Tapestry print bowtie with an oxford spread and a pinstripe DB. Excelent pairing from Alex’s early days at Drake’s. This has been in my inspo album forever due to how fun it is!
Stripes keep things trad. Perty T. Rathbone – Museum of Fine Arts Boston, photographed by Yousef Karsh.
You can get Churchillian by using a blue polka dot bow tie.
Its a bit more formal than other foulards or even stripes, balancing whimsy with sobriety.
What a fun look that actually seems a bit crazy when you think about it.
Red polka dot bow tie!
Of course you can always go minimal with your styling.
This brings the stripes to the forefront, helping you project some gravitas.
Aaron Copland wearing a 3PC pinstripe suit with a solid tie during a 1940s tour in South America.
Alan See of the Armoury anchoring double stripes with a solid knit tie. I love the visual restraint.
Ethan Newton does this a lot as well. Here he is with a grey flannel tie.
Similar here but with a grey knit tie. A bit more casual but with the same color scheme (though his glasses provide some fun).
All blue, from his hat to the socks.
Ethan seems to do that variation a lot!
Similar blue on blue look from Drake’s.
David Coggins in a delightfully wrinkly brown pinstripe with a solid shirt and tie.
A dark tie is probably the main move, especially if you want to lean into being sleek.
Some true vintage examples!
Paolo going tonal with a light grey checked tie against a mid grey striped suit. A softer look than simply wearing a black or navy tie.
A great mannequin from Bryceland’s a few years ago.
An interesting stripe here!
Silver ties in general are fun to wear.
Microcheck ties are a good option when you want some pattern.
A knit is close enough!
A micro check tie on Jake Grantham.
Grantham leans into the tonal styling a lot.
Such a somber look, I love it. Professional and elegant, which is the appeal of the Striped suit in general.
Moody.
An oversized check tie!
Low contrast is also a thing. It’s edgier and a bit “prom” but it can look good, especially if you’re aiming to Go Out
These were also from Darren’s excellent archive.
Mallory (played by Ralph Fiennes) does tonal looks with pinstripe suits, all helping support his serious demeanor.
I do like the use of a blue shirt and purple tie in Spectre.
A similar color scheme from the 90s or early 2000s (from Darren).
A minimal palette doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with some patterns. Here’s Hector with a black geometric tie and fedora.
The dotted tie is perfect for this.
Really leaning into the formal Apparel Arts look. It also feels very Ralph.
It’s definitely fun with a knit version. I also love the cream patterned pocket square for some extra pop.
We also can’t forget about knitwear!
A rollneck with a striped suit was one of my favorite things to do. This photo isn’t too bad…until you learn that my suit was linen. It was my only striped suit during those early days!
You could even have fun with color here too!
Things don’t have to be so serious with a chalkstripe suit.
A lighter tie is also quite fun.
It feels a bit elegant without being too serious. Even though this is a very old photo of me, the idea is still great!
To prove it, I copied it recently! Still good, right?
Iconic photo of Fred Astaire, who “casualizes” the chalkstripe suit with a straw hat and suede shoes.
Light tie with a 3PC DB.
Going light with the suit is a fun move too!
A light-base striped suit is more casual than its brethren. It’s certainly done so by Apparel Arts, with the green fedora, navy sweater vest, and brown shoes.
What a great summer look!
Women’s wear does it well.
Let’s get back to color. Similar to the move with the rollnecks, we have an opportunity to inject some vibrance with our shirts! Jake wears a pink spread collar, which pops against the dark striped suit and the solid knit tie.
I did the exact same look a few years ago. It’s due for a redux!
I love Jay’s take here, where he used fall colors. It helps the city suit go country.
One of my favorite moves is to make the tie the center piece of the outfit. Here, the cream/khaki tie plays into the stripes. It’s a move taken from 1930s/40s summer styling.
See what I mean?
Arnold does it well here in a more dramatic fashion.
A little dated (and bold) but still a fun vibe.
Speaking of Apparel Arts, the stripes are quite an invitation to wear ties that are bit more abstract and funky. It’s a different move than going formal or even corporate.
I’ve always enjoyed this look from Spencer.
Arnold Wong again.
This is another one of my favorite Ethan looks: a chalkstripe suit with my beloved square motif brocade tie.
A fun geometric tie on Jimmy Stewart.
Color coordinating with a light red shirt and tie.
What a fun tie! See, a pinstripe suit doesn’t mean it has to be all business. He’s even wearing it with a tyrolean hat for God’s sake!
I wish I didn’t get rid of this suit, though this was taken almost a decade ago. I may not have been able to fit into it now!
Mark Cho wearing his Striped Suit with a funky tie.
A very fashion-y take from the 90s. (Thanks Darren!)
I wore this on a date back in the day. I’d wear it again!
A brown chalkstripe suit with my favorite tie in the world.
Sorta echoes this outfit!
Jimmy!
I love this. Its a very 30s combo.
I do understand that an abstract tie can also lean more 80s/90s. That isn’t bad!
I guess the real way to invoke Apparel Arts is to do some pattern mixing! Snapped this of Buzz in a pinstripe suit back in 2016.
Baby Ethan!
I just love seeing geometrics with a striped suit. I guess its because I love doing that with striped shirts.
In love with this pairing on Alan.
Similar idea here from Stephané in J. Mueser bespoke.
Fantastic. (This is Jake Grantham)
A brief respite for checked ties. A good way to do fun if geometric foulards aren’t your thing.
Have fun with color, just like Chad is here!
Or you know, just have fun with even wackier ties. I feel like they look more at home with a striped suit than a solid one. Perhaps it’s because the suit is also loud?
Loved this look even though the suit was way too heavy to wear in SoCal.
Love it.
Triple pattern mixing is really where its at.
Rinse and repeat!
It just feels so Golden Era.
Good job, Ethan!
Damn!
This is one of my favorite (recent) looks of all time. Its an abstract tie, so it feels 30s. However, it also feels quite luxurious with a classic vibe at the same time.
Perhaps there’s something to be said about navy geometrics with a Striped Suit. It’s not necessarily corporate or dandy. It has its own vibe.
Oh yeah, it feels like Ralph Lauren (because the brand does this look pairing a lot).
Whether its a full suit or done as separates, you can be your ass that RL will pair a striped suit with a navy geometric tie.
I don’t have a lot of separates inspo, but I do like the idea. It almost feels like workwear due to its vague similarity to wabash stripe.
An old Jay fit I enjoyed.
On the flip side, Drake’s did a linen pinstripe overshirt, which also felt more like workwear.
Michael did it quite well as “soft evening wear” for my NYE 2023 party! What a great pairing!
I did the Ralph move with white pants quite a bit!
I’ve gotta copy this one.
RL really does do this a lot. It’s proof that you can get a lot of wear out of your pinstripe or chalkstripe jacket. Using it with cream flannels almost gives it a boating feel.
Not exactly a pinstripe or chalkstripe, but you get the idea.
This photo of Chad has stuck in my mind for years. Perfect use of chalkstripe as an odd jacket. It doesn’t even need to be done with white pants!
Though again, this is a good look.
How can you not feel the boating connotations?
Wild to do it with a tie, but it works!
I actually did this move myself, simply because one of my first few. vintage purchases with a chalkstripe jacket and vest…with no pants. Oh well, I had to make use of what I got!
And it worked! I got a lot of mileage out of the jacket by doing this look.
Its almost like a faux-morning dress sort of thing.
Worked just fine with my brown stripe odd jacket as well.
I should re-do these looks!
I mean I clearly kinda did a repeat here.
From The Red Shoes: a grey chalkstripe with cream flannels.
Ralph doing the separates thing with naval dungarees and white bucks. It’s a certainly a fashion move, but it fucks.
This was my take on the iconic Chad fit from earlier. It leans #menswear but I thought it was really good!
In fact it was so good that I decided to repeat it with my new chalkstripe jacket.
I think it still works!
Using it as separates in mod styling is also fun: the drummer wears a chalkstripe wool blazer with blue pants and white boots.
A “punk take” by Larry who wears a striped DB jacket with a band tee, black jeans, and horsebits. Edgy!
On that note, I recently did a similar move but kept the concert merch tee with the full suit and wore it suede slippers. Subversive to tradition but still fun!
By modern standards, you might even consider the use of boaters with Striped Suits to be a bit subversive. Though if you look at how often this happened, it was probably considered normal.
It’s a nice look!
Subversive/Casual
Today, people love adding “subversive” takes on pinstripes. Western-themed accessories are common. David Coggins wears an old Stetson with a grey chalkstripe suit.
Looks like we’ve been doing this for a long time, as this 1940s photo shows.
Garret wearing my old Indochino. DB with cowboy boots and a western belt.
Similar look here by Matt Woodruff.
Larry.
Stephané doing it with a soft chambray spread collar.
Ethan Newton doing his take. Makes the vibe casual while retaining the power of the Stripes.
Ryutaro casualizing a 3PC by doing sans tie and wearing velvet slippers.
We also can’t forget wearing a Striped Suit with a sportshirt. Runaway collar time!
Really great to do with aloha shirts. I love the juxtaposition between the rigidity of the stripes and the fun prints.
Its something I continue to do today.
Arnold did it too!
I love how the stripes envelop the patterned shirt. The restraint shown by not going runaway collar helps too!
I wonder what came first, the mannequin or Ethan’s actual fit!
Amazing. The striped tee base layer and runaway collar makes the pinstripe suit feel nautical.
A going out look.
Always loved this photo of Arnold.
Reminds me of me back in the day.
This is yet another opportunity to have fun with color!
Mob boss chic.
Drake’s taking the piss out of chalkstripe with a more fashion-y combo with a madras fun shirt, purple socks, tied sweater, and suede moc boots.
I’ve also got to mention fun takes on the fabric itself. Not only is the spacing quite large here but the chalkstripe itself is wide!
This Dashing Tweeds fabric is something else!
Looks normal from afar!
I believe Buzz also used this cloth!
Of course its also fine just to have fun with color. The Stripes of the suit will keep things sober for you.
That being said, I’m also fine with just having fun with my shirt and tie. I paired an aloha tie with my chalkstripe suit for the eve of my birthday!
I also liked this look, which utilized a western shirt, wool deco stripe tie, and my beloved kimono.
This one was more about having fun with colors than it is about the vibes of the suit. Though to be clear, those vibe are still present!
This one brings together color, pattern, and some western influence (thanks to the boots).
But nothing beats simply leaning into the classic vibes of the Pin/Chalk-Stripe suit. It just feels right!
It may be a formal or dandy suit, but you don’t need to wait for an Occasion to wear it. The Occasion happens simply when you put it in!
This is for you, Baby Ethan!
I’m him.
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